You're always told; The climber is responsible for his own safety and should evaluate every protection bolt clipped. This is true, but in practice, most climbers don’t. Climbers put a lot of faith in the bolts they clip, unless a bolt is so rusted that it looks like a danger it's generally considered safe. Have you ever really checked that third bolt up Breakfast Special or just clipped and pushed on... No? Well, we have.
Turns out there's a bit of a situation at hand. Beneath a lot of those shining silver hangers lays a danger in waiting. In the early years of development carbon steel bolts were used with stainless steel hangers and in the intervening 20 years has left the bolts suffering from serious rust!
Look guys, we have been to the cliffs, inspected every bolt and anchor, came up with a plan and assembled a team. This is a community problem and affects us all. But it's easy to solve. We have the know how and the people ready to go. We're asking the community to help raise the funds. Let's restore trustworthiness in our bolts. So next time you, or your girlfriend, or your kid is 15 feet above that last shining silver hanger you'll be sure that it will do the job you need it to.
This initiative will replace 224 bolts on 29 routes, and 54 top anchors at our local cliffs just north of Kenora Ontario: Jones, Gooseneck and Panorama. This will bring the climbs up to UIAA safety standards and upgrade the functionality of the top anchors.Click here to see a map of the area
As donations come in the money will be spent in stages, the focus will be making safe climbs from the top down.
Stage 1- $220.00
Replacement of all 60 top anchor bolts at Jones Road (hanger hardware will be upgraded in stage 3)
Stage 2 - $520.00
Replacement of all 57 sport climbing bolts and hangers at Jones Road
Stage 3 - $490.00
Upgrading all top anchor Hardware at Jones Road (Chains, Rap Hangers, Quicklinks)
Stage 4 -$1320.00
Replacement of all bolts and hangers at Gooseneck and Panorama, replacement will take place in similar stages to Jones Road.
Please help out with this cause to ensure safe climbing for future generations. This responsibility falls on all of us.
There's no admission fee out at the crags, but someone has paid for those bolts and anchors we all use. Dont take it for granted - Click here to see what your donation gets us all!
To get involved please email email@example.com
July 8 - 2017
Matt Dennison Memorial Route (5.10a)
Matt Dennison, beloved scapegoat, was peacefully put to rest on the final day of the rebolting initiative. In his honour we established a new route! While you ascend the moderate moves you might have a wave of pride, and expect some recognition, only to have the final crux move deflate your ego as fast as bad journalism.
Matt Dennison was well recognized by Gripped Magazine as an integral part of the rebolting initiave. Outside of this grave inaccuracy Matt is in fact a talented Vancouver based outdoors adventure filmmaker.
A sending service will be held at the base of the climb, located on the arete immediately right of Charlie Recs ltd. All are welcome to attend and celebrate the rebolting initiative. In lieu of flowers please donate bolts to your nearest route developer.
June 26-July 2 - 2017
Ryan headed out on the last weekend of June and seriously took care of business at Gooseneck (Mike was sick). All previously installed plated bolts are now replaced with stainless steel. That said, Gooseneck is very large and a bolt or two might have been missed... If anyone comes upon a questionably looking bolt please feel free to inform us asap.
Last weekend we replaced the remaining bolts on all routes at Jones. We patched the top anchor bolt holes that were left after the retrofit. Sure felt good to set the last bolt! Spoiler alert: We even had time for scouting of a new route.
Apr 16 - 2017
Ryan and I (this is Mike here) set out to K-town today resolved to get at least one route done rain (or snow) or shine. We got lucky; in between two cells of flurries that passed through we had a few nice hours where the rock was dry and the bolts pulled out easily. WAIT! That is actually convenient for us, but also hair raising. The three bolts on Lost in Face had such rust fused cones that they pulled out with very little effort. Yikes. WELL NOW they have big shiny stainless steel. We happen to know someone projecting that route and we feel much better about it.
As well as the 3 bolts on Lost in Face we replaced all the 5 bolts on the crowd favourite High Steppin' Arête Monkeys. Have fun out there people, and stay safe!
Oct 8-10 - 2016
It was a long and tiring weekend rebolting at Gooseneck but it went well. We worked hard over the three days and got most of the hardware changed out.
Gooseneck was a mixed bag of hardware and it was nice to find some 20 year old stainless steel bolts looking like they did the day they were placed. In fact, we couldn't remove them if we wanted to compared to the non stainless that came out with ease. Lots of scary stuff at Gooseneck, the home made aluminum hangers were probably the worst.
Here's some numbers of what's done, and what's left:
190 bolts changed out of 221 total required.
What still needs completed: Gooseneck The Great Slab area - 4 Bolts A New Beginning - first pitch anchor Hugh's Horror - mid way bolt Pinnacle Overhang - 2 bolts Gimme Gimme Gimme - 1 bolt
Jones Dark side - 1 bolt Dreaming my Dreams -4 bolts Pop Quiz - 3 bolts High Stepping Arête Monkeys -4 bolts Lost in Face - 3 bolts Scorpion - 2 anchors
With the season coming to an end we will be very selective with when we go out again. The rest of the retrofit will probably be completed over the winter months before next summer's climbing season.
The remaining hardware at Jones was placed in the mid 2000's and is safe for use for many years to come yet but will be swapped out now to save someone having to do so in the future.
Gooseneck's remaining hardware should be suspect to anyone clipping it. All the routes remaining are mixed gear routes and the bolts are supplemental to the gear you place. I would appreciate if anyone comes across hardware we have missed at gooseneck to please let me know, it's a large cliff and it is likely to have missed a bolt or two.
One thing that was shockingly obvious was the difference in holding strengths between aged stainless and non stainless bolts, after 15-20 years the non stainless rusts solid stopping the expansion cone from working as it is intended; even worse, if the bolt was never tightened to proper torque in the first place.
I hope moving forward our community can acknowledge the industry standard of minimum stainless steel hardware so that this very labour intensive process doesn't need to be repeated.
Sept 18 - 2016
First day rebolting at Gooseneck, we concentrated on top anchors and finished a large chunk of the cliff. We upgraded top anchors and adjusted their position to use the new Fixe chains. A rock had fallen off Questionable Ethics and hit the top anchor; we didnt have time to change it so you may want to try another route until we can replace the bolts. We discovered the bolts on Slap yourself in the Face are actually stainless steel, placed in 1996; they look brand new and it's shocking compared to routes of the same age. There is still a lot of work to go but it's looking promising for completing the 200+ bolts we set out to replace.
July 23 - 2016
The bolts on Les Boys at Jones are now replaced. Only a few more routes at Jones to go! Gooseneck remains undone...we were just not in the mood in the driving rain this weekend.
July 09 - 2016
Panorama is now complete, all hardware is now stainless steel and ready for some big whippers.
We are now waiting for a hardware order to arrive so we probably won't be out for a weekend or two with the rebolting, looks like we actually get to do some climbing! We will return to Jones next to do the left over cleanup before moving on to gooseneck.
Gooseneck is going to be a large undertaking, it most likely will be done over the summer slowly. All the existing top anchors will take priority then we will move onto the sport climbs. In the meantime use your judgement about what your clipping out there and stay safe.
If you come across something that looks dangerous let us know and we can try and rush out to replace it.
July 1-3 - 2016
it's been a busy couple weekends out at the Jones. It was nice to see so many people out on the long weekend. I'm happy to say it is now easier to list what's not done at Jones than what is done! Everything is replaced except the following:
All other hardware at Jones is now stainless steel and meets UIAA standards. We still need to run around and patch any holes created in the process. It's a messy job and we want to do it all at once to try to keep the epoxy residue off our ropes and gear as best we can. If you notice any bolts that have spinning hangers let us know. There is no safety concern with the spinning hanger on the new bolts, and it's an easy fix, we just need to know which bolt on what climb. We've just placed the order for the remaining gear required. We will be moving over to Panorama next and will come back to Jones after we complete the work there. The bolts needed for Gooseneck are on back order and will come at the end of July. The crew has been working hard at replacing the bolts and the back order gives us a much needed break to get a few weekends of actual climbing in. If you notice anything we've missed send us an email at firstname.lastname@example.org
June 24-26 - 2016
Big weekend in the rain- First things first: Huge shout out to our rebolting crew of the weekend; Kori and Kerri Cuthbert, Ashton Beaupré, Matt Denisson, and Steven Theriault. Wouldn't have been the same without you all. Thanks Dave McBride for bringing that generator.
We have succesfully replaced all toprope anchors from the extreme left of the cliff all the way across up to Yellowjackets, as well as replaced all the sport route bolts up to Delilah (aka Bug Eyed and Blasted). We'll get the rest done soon! More pics and videos on the SLIDESHOW
One more note: we found a bunch of garbage around the crag presumably left by climbers at the anchors. Please (I can't believe we have to say this, but..) take your trash out with you. You're strong enough to carry that coke bottle out.
June 18 - 2016
Replaced anchors with wicked new Fixe chains/rings rap stations on 6 routes today : Deception, Jonesing for Coco Puffs, Driven By Desire, Eponymous, Delilah, and Ass Blaster.
Added more photos and captions to the SLIDESHOW
June 9 - 2016
First order of hardware arrived today, too bad it was only 6 drill bits. The rest should be here next week!
June 7 - 2016
Made a little SLIDESHOW of update images. Check it out y'all!
June 6 - 2016
We placed our initial order with MEC, pretty much cleared them out of the Triplex Bolts needed and made a good dent in their other hardawre supplies.
June 5 - 2016
Anchor bolts replaced on Delilah and Ass Blaster, this removes the home made angle iron hangers from the cliff. Quick links and chains have been added until the order of hardware arrives. One of the old bolts on Delilah was unable to be removed so the hanger was cut to prevent it being used and the bolt will be removed and patched on the next outing, I forgot my hacksaw at home.
June 2 - 2016
We have reached our goal!
June 1 - 2016
Big first night! Before Ryan and I finished our first beers our phones were beepin off the hook! So proud of all the community! Everyone showing amazing support and interest in the cause. Check out the donors page!
June 2 - 2016
We have reached our goal!
May 31 - 2016
MEC donated $500 to the cause!
May 1 - 2016
Replaced the rest of the bolts on Breakfast Special. We moved the top anchor higher and installed Fixe chains.
April 17 - 2016
First bolts on Breakfast Special and Ass Blaster removed nice and cleanly, replaced with new bolts.
April 10 - 2016
Pulled a bolt on Deception and Silver, they didn't come as easily as Funny Face but the rust below the surface is surprising. Replaced with new bolts.
April 3 - 2016
Inspected each and every bolt at Jones for material type and condition. It's very apparent that there is a problem.
Oct - 2007
Bolts pulled on funny face and replaced with fixe triplex. Top anchors still need changed.